By Bill Engar

It seems that just about everyone has an interest on some level in the Titanic.  As the most well-known ship ever built, naturally there would be substantial interest in a model of the famous ship.  We’ve made a detailed list of the plastic model kits of Titanic that you can see elsewhere on our website.
 
Our bonus section features a comprehensive history of the Minicraft kit including a detailed list of the updates made to it based on new information learned during expeditions to the Titanic wreck site.

INVESTIGATION SUMMARY:  THIS CLASSIC MODEL IS AMONG THE HANDFUL OF "ESSENTIAL KITS" THAT ANY EXPERIENCED MODELER SHOULD TRY AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER.  IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY BUILT A 1/350 TITANIC, WE'D RECOMMEND THAT YOU ADD IT TO YOUR COLLECTION OR GIVE IT A BUILD TODAY!

The Centennial Edition (#11318) is the "base" model of Titanic.  At USD$79.99, it's the most economical version of the model with molded plastic railings.

Minicraft’s 1/350 Titanic has been a favorite of modelers for decades and we wanted to do a comprehensive webpage-review to familiarize you with one of the greatest model kits ever made.  We'll cover both the Centennial Edition and Deluxe Edition.

Even at a USD$99.99 MSRP, this kit is probably the best 1/350-scale value for a large ship model.  This Deluxe Edition (#11320) includes a fret of photoetched railings which replace the plastic railings that already come with the kit.

The Titanic Disaster needs no introduction.  Even though a century has passed since the ship went down, it seems that everyone knows about it and everyone has some sort of emotional connection to it.  You may take it for granted, but many safety protocols that protect you when you travel were initiated in the aftermath of the Titanic Disaster.  The loss of life was certainly tragic but perhaps your life has been saved because of lessons learned from this horrifying event in history.

Contents of the Deluxe Edition spread out on a 56X28-inch table.  Note the yardstick and meter stick at the bottom for reference.  With a hull over 30 inches in length and over 400 parts, this is truly a substantial kit.  The Centennial Edition will include all the components you see here except the photoetched brass railings set (visible at left between the clear parts and thread spool)

​Minicraft’s Titanic is a styrene plastic model kit with 400 parts.  The kit contains ten sprues of parts with six additional large, separate parts including a one-piece hull.  Make no mistake that this is considered an advanced kit that will require some serious model building experience.  Later on in the review, we’ll provide some suggestions to simplify assembly for those builders who’d like to have a big model of the ship but maybe don’t have skills to manipulate the small, delicate parts such as the railings.

No less than 13 bags are used to protect the parts and Minicraft stands out in the industry with their sturdy boxes.

The "A" Parts Tree is actually two sprues!  We'll explain why in our bonus features.  Brass-finish parts go to the base.

One of the Minicraft Titanic’s greatest assets is its low price!  Virtually all other large, 1/350-scale ship models with this kind of size and detail will retail well over $100.  While the pricing of most model kits has increased beyond normal inflation over the years, Minicraft has decided to price this kit in a range that makes it one of the scale modeling hobby’s best values.

The "B" Parts Tree is the clear parts.  At the ends are hatch covers.  Center-right are cradle-supports for the base and center-left are seven skylights.

At top is the Promenade Deck and below is the Boat Deck.  Note the fore and aft Grand Staircase wells in the Promenade Deck part!  Stay tuned for a closeup view.

Shoppers will note that the kit has two versions.  Both allow you to create an extremely detailed model.  The Centennial Edition, which retails at $79.99, commemorates 100 years since the 1912 Titanic disaster.  At that time, Minicraft Models commissioned a significant number of modifications to the tooling to improve accuracy of the kit based on information learned about Titanic after the kit was originally tooled. 

The "D" Parts Tree has the well decks, but they're not on a sprue.  There is no "E" Parts Tree; perhaps the Promenade and Boat Deck parts were part of an "E" Parts Tree at one time.

The "F/G" Parts Tree has rudder, wing prop skegs, inner stacks, and miscellaneous fittings.

The Centennial Edition utilizes the original plastic railings.  We should point out here that the plastic railings originally tooled were nicely done—they’re not like the solid walls you’d see on many ship models of the period.  You can produce an intricately detailed, complete model from the Centennial Edition that will look fantastic on your fireplace mantel or in your display case.

The "H" Parts Tree has boats, benches and bulkheads!

The "I" Parts Tree has smaller deck parts.  The focsle is completely new tooling - read on!

The Deluxe Edition, retailing at $99.99, comes with a complete set of photoetched brass railings.  These are more finely detailed than the plastic railings that come with the kit.  They were included since many experienced ship modelers will incorporate aftermarket photoetch railings in their ship models to enhance realism.  Minicraft makes it easy for those modelers by including the railing set—you can build a museum-grade model of Titanic right out of the box.

The "J" Parts Tree has the stacks and various bulkheads including the Bridge Face.

The kit has many nice little "extras" that increase your modeling pleasure.  Just one is a substantial base, shown here, with the appropriate portion of the "A" Parts Tree.

The kit includes some additional extras that you might not expect to find at the low price.  A length of black metal anchor chain is included and some very fine rigging thread is also in the box. 
 
It seems that many new kits nowadays, especially ship models, scrimp seriously when it comes to providing some sort of display base.  The six-piece affair that comes with Minicraft’s Titanic is very nice.  A substantial block base with brass-plate pedestals and nameplate are included with the kit, again another upgrade that doesn’t cost any extra.

Decals - printed by Italian company Cartograf!  They're the Ferrari of decal makers!

A spool of very fine thread will provide an in-scale feel to the rigging.

This kit utilized multimedia from the get-go with this metal anchor chain included in both current kits.

What about the kit itself?  What about its “manners” and buildability?  Certainly, it is a vintage kit and you’ll experience some flash to clean up and things like sinkholes and seams to fill.  I haven’t seen anything too egregious and being of average size, even if you don’t clean them up, the minor sinkholes, mold parting seams, flash, etc will simply disappear due to the large size of the finished model.  Honestly, you could probably clean up most of the parts while watching Titanic (1997) through once or maybe twice if you’re cleaning up to contest standards.

The Grand Staircase of the Titanic is faithfully rendered in Minicraft's 1/350 Titanic!

At nearly 80 feet tall and 100 tons, Titanic's rudder was deemed too small in hindsight.

Titanic's compass tower in 1/350 scale.

Additional aftermarket sets for items such as wood decks can be added.  There are aftermarket photoetch sets that available that provide more finely detailed options for things like cranes and the compass platform, plus you can get photoetch sets for the benches and even deck chairs!  Photoetch sets of passengers are also available and you can easily spend more for aftermarket parts than the kit will cost you.  Even generously outfitted with these extra sets, you simply won’t find a better value in a ship model kit than either Minicraft Titanic option.

SUMMARY

In conclusion, Dem Brudders highly recommend this kit and give it an enthusiastic Four Thumbs Up!  Thanks to uncompromising detail and a well-written set of instructions, this model kit is a great way to experience the Titanic without having to go back in time.  You'll become intimately familiar with all her topside details and locales.  Comprehensive instructions will familiarize you with specific facilities on the ship such as the Second Class Library, First Class Lounge, Gymnasium, Officer's Mess, and even the separate locations for First and Second Class Entrances!

Instructions are well-done:  8-1/2X11 (approximately A4) and 40 pages -- packed with information!  

SPECIAL THANKS TO MINICRAFT MODELS FOR PROVIDING BOTH TITANIC KITS FOR US TO REVIEW!

BUILDING NOTES

There are some minor sinkholes in the hull.  Unless you’re a contest modeler with the need to hide such nitpicks from a judging team, you might not even care about them.  A round or two with your favorite filler putty will take care of these.  Many parts are molded in color, but you really will need paint to make your Titanic look real.  For example, the bilge keels and outboard prop skegs are molded in white plastic.  You’ll want to paint below the waterline with anti-fouling red paint anyway.  Perhaps the shade may be more of a brown than red.  I’d tell you to refer to photos before remembering that any photo taken circa 1912 would be black-and-white.  The upper hull should be painted white as well.  Kit instructions provide excellent suggestions regarding paint colors.  You might want to check them before stocking up for your build.

In addition to railings, the photoetch set (Deluxe Edition only) includes mast ratlines.  Detail this fine simply can't be molded in plastic--this is the main appeal of photoetch!

A closeup of the bow shows overlapping hull plates with beveled joints consistent with photos of the ship.  If you look carefully, you can detect a faintly scribed paint guide for the waterline.

​Speaking of the hull painting, note that there is a very faint line etched at the waterline to use as a guide when masking for your anti-fouling red-brown at the lower hull.  Titanic’s hull plates follow the “sheer,” or gentle curvature of the hull intended to keep bow and stern higher out of ocean swells.  Masking should follow the thin etched line and not the hull plate lines.
 
Some sources refer to the small port high on the bow stem as the towing fairlead or “mulgogger.”  I’ve also seen it referred to as the hawse pipe for third anchor, which is the more likely explanation of its purpose.  You could use a small drill to open the hole and then expand it to an oval shape with a hobby knife.

TO PE OR NOT TO PE:  Note the difference between vintage plastic rails (left) and photoetch rails (right).  The plastic railings come with both Centennial and Deluxe versions but the PE set only comes with the Deluxe Edition.  Instructions mention sanding the backside of the plastic rails, which will thin them down a bit.

Plastic ratlines will need some work to clean up that thick sprue attachment web.  Sanding the backside will thin them down.

Petite ratlines are included with the PE set.  Remember, you need cyanacrylate "Super Glue" or epoxy to fasten photoetch parts to your model.  Standard plastic model cement will not work!
​

MAKE IT EASY

Minicraft's 1/350 RMS Titanic is an advanced model kit recommended for experienced modelers.  However, if one is particularly excited to experience this model without finely honed model building skills, a nice display model can still be built.  Painting is strongly recommended making sure the paint used is intended for building plastic models.  At a minimum, hull-red is recommended below the waterline.  Gradually mixing red and some brown paint until the color desired is obtained is recommended.  White paint for superstructure details will also enhance realism of the model.

The most difficult part of building this model will probably be the rigging and rails.  If this work is too difficult, simply plan to skip it.  You may find that as you build the rest of the model, you're ready to try your luck at rails and rigging after you've built your skills on the way to the final steps, which involve the rigging and rails anyway.  Some modelers may find that dealing with the photoetch railing in the Deluxe Edition is easier than the plastic railings included in the base-kit.

Some flexing and shaping of piping and ladders is required.  For an advanced or intermediate modeler, these items shouldn't be too difficult, but beginners likewise may get frustrated.  These are other parts that could simply be left off the model if accomplishing these steps seems too difficult.  While your model won't be fully detailed without these parts, you'll still have a nice model of Titanic and will have had an enjoyable experience building with those parts that fit the skills you bring to the project.

BONUS MATERIAL

​KIT HISTORY:  MINICRAFT'S 1/350 RMS TITANIC

During the early 20th Century, leisure time activities emerged as technology provided more people extra time beyond that required to maintain basic subsistence.  Model building became popular and new hobby kits provided budding hobbyists options beyond whittling a spare scrap or stick of wood.  Plastic replaced wood a few years after WWII in most model kits.  Revell’s USS Missouri model ship kit of 1953 was a huge gamble that paid off beyond expectations.  One of the challenges of the period was convincing the new plastic model builder of the importance of using a new, specially formulated type of glue.  Styrene plastic parts would only stick together using this glue and Revell eventually had to designate its models as "S" kits that could only be built using "S"-type (Styrene) Cement which they conveniently offered.  Once modelers were tuned in to getting the right glue, building plastic models emerged as an extremely popular hobby as the 1950’s drew to a close.

Prior to common use of styrene plastic for a model kit, building a ship was hard!  Much fabrication had to be done utilizing cutting and carving.  Completing a model of a ship much larger than this Baltimore Class cruiser would be a major undertaking.  Boxartden image.

As modelers matured, manufacturers responded with larger, more complex kits and during the 1960’s, the “Superkit” truly emerged.  As a rule, only the large model kit companies could afford the risks of creating such products.  In 1965, Revell released the 1/96 USS Constitution, a fully rigged heavy frigate that came to fame during the early 19th Century.  Up to that time, building a large, rigged ship model took a considerable amount of time, skill, and money.  Revell duplicated the intricate parts often crafted by hand by skilled ship model builders and most hobbyists with some experience could build what was considered a “museum quality” display piece the likes of which would have required master craftsman skills before.

Let's continue our trip back in time with a little more help from our friends at Boxartden.com.  Revell's 1/535 USS Missouri  was truly a game-changer for Revell and the model kit industry.  Originally, the box (artwork shown here) had roughly the same dimensions as that holding a toothpaste tube.  Later, it was discovered that a thinner box with a much larger top surface provided a ready-made billboard that would greatly favor a lavishly detailed painting.

Other Superkits came along such as Monogram’s 1/72 B-52 and a few car models in 1/8 scale.  As the 1960’s gave way to the 1970’s, ships such as the USS Missouri and Constitution were revered by modeler/historians for their contributions to history and additional models of these two ships showed up including smaller versions of the Constitution and a larger version of the USS Missouri.

In 1970, Entex was formed.  Entex never became a large company, but they were known for producing popular kits of eclectic subjects that competed well with the “big boys” such as Aurora, Revell, and Monogram.  Entex took a huge risk with an untried idea.  If storied ships such as the USS Missouri and USS Constitution would be big sellers, how popular would a ship made infamous by its disastrous debut be with modelers?  Additionally, it would be a civil ship and not a military subject which were safer bets as good-selling kits.  Would modelers respond well to a kit of the RMS Titanic?  Personally, I think the decision by Entex to create a Titanic kit in any scale was gutsy, but to do it in such a major way by a small company represents what must have been one of the biggest gambles in the plastic kit industry at the time.

1600 parts in 1965!  This was truly the "Superkit" of its day.  At 38 inches in length (nearly 1 meter), this was a substantial model when completed.

A key decision made by Entex was to create the best possible Titanic kit that could be done with the most comprehensive reference materials then available.  The Titanic Historical Society had been around about ten years as the kit was developed and this organization was tapped to help create the kit.  The Titanic disaster investigation was a tumultuous affair with ship’s crew, builders, White Star Line, and regulatory agencies scrambling to point fingers at each other and the inquiry did not benefit those interested in Titanic's details.

The Superkit of 1956:  Entex/Minicraft's 1/350 Titanic was not the first large-scale ocean liner kit.  This ITC (Ideal Toy Company) SS United States (in roughly 1/400 scale) preceded the Titanic by nearly 20 years.  The Titanic kit was superior in terms of accuracy and detail.  Glencoe Models has re-released this in recent years.  Scalemates image.  

The Titanic’s original plans disappeared during this period which provided challenges as Entex developed the kit 60 years later.  The Titanic Historical Society became an important clearing house for photos of the ship taken during its short life and when those resources fell short, much more extensive data on Titanic’s sister ships Olympic and Britannic had to be utilized to fill in the gaps.  It should be noted that the Titanic kit was released ten years prior to discovery of the wreck so what was left of the ship itself could not be utilized as a reference.

A Japanese company, G-Mark, actually did the kit engineering.  The kit was sold in Japan in a G-Mark box and in the USA, it debuted in an Entex box utilizing a photo of the built model on a white background.

When the kit was released, it was a big deal.  I remember visiting more than one hobby shop circa 1975-6 where shopkeepers and customers discussed the kit with excitement.  Being considered a “high-end” kit it was out of the range of my skill level and budget at the time which was severely limited by my paperboy wages.  Scoring one as a Christmas or birthday gift was a pipe dream thanks to a mother who was not about to allow me to spend time in the basement building such a large, complex model kit.

G-Mark's version of the 1/350 "Titanic The Late Great" was sold this way in Japan.

The photo on the box of the Entex version of the 1/350 Titanic was 30 inches (66 cm) long to emphasize the actual size of the finished model.

Entex Models did not survive the rise of video games in the early 1980’s.  Minicraft Models purchased much of Entex’s tooling assets including Titanic and during the 1980’s, the 1/350 Titanic became a Minicraft kit.  A brief marketing agreement with Academy put both names on the 1/350 Titanic kits sold into the early 1990’s, but that agreement dissolved and no remnants of it persist other than old boxes with both names.

With competitor Academy producing a number of Titanic kits today, it is easy for some modelers to be confused as to which company provides support for a particular Titanic kit; it’s important for the modeler to remember that the 1/350 Titanic model is exclusively a Minicraft product and Minicraft cannot provide any assistance with any Titanic kits in other scales.

In another case of brand-collaboration/evolution, the 1/350 Titanic has been seen in a Gunze box.

Two significant events occurred that affected Minicraft’s Titanic.  Once the wreck was discovered and photographed, it was apparent that there were differences between the actual Titanic and the reference material used to create the original 1/350 kit.  For a few years, modelers who wished to create the most accurate Titanic model available had to compile a list of desired changes.  As the Internet emerged in the mid-to-late 1990’s, this information became much easier for the average modeler to access.

An older version of Minicraft's 1/350 Titanic with the Academy name attached, which has caused some branding confusion in the modeling community.  Apologies for the rippling on the left side of the box; it was water-damaged when I bought it from another modeler.  While I got the kit at a nice discount, the evidence of a suspected basement flood adds an extra level of authenticity to this earlier example of Minicraft's 1/350 Titanic.

Minicraft turned its Titanic kit on its end in 2012 with this "Travel Brochure" boxing

The next significant event for Minicraft’s 1/350 Titanic was debut of the Titanic movie in 1997.  Our Big Titanic Kit List article specifically addresses this phenomenon and the effect it had for Titanic model builders.
 
Until this time, Minicraft’s Titanic reigned supreme and had become perhaps the most beloved ship model ever made.  With new Titanic model kits coming out all the time, Minicraft saw a need to keep the model relevant when compared to newer kits that utilized photographic evidence from the wreck as a development reference.  For the Centennial of the Titanic Disaster, Minicraft studied potential modifications to the original tooling and the result is the 1/350 Titanic model you can buy today.

Titanic's survivors have joined her victims in death during the century since the ship went down.  But the story lives on!

Minicraft's 1/350 RMS Titanic - prior to the 2012 updates

Read on; we’ll specifically detail the changes.  The most significant modification is a new focsle piece.  Hatch covers, skylights, portholes, new anchors, and many other parts were modified and collectively, quite a bit was done to the kit.  Minicraft’s marketing stated that there were over 50 changes made.  I was curious about this and decided to do a detailed comparison between “old” and “new” Minicraft Titanic kits and provide photos and details.

REVISIONS FOR THE CENTENNIAL AND DELUXE EDITIONS OF MINICRAFT'S 1/350 RMS TITANIC

In 2012, Minicraft Models commemorated the 100th Anniversary of the Titanic's maiden voyage and tragic end with a new edition of their iconic 1/350-scale model kit.  Many details came to light once the wreck was discovered in 1985 that weren't known when the original version of the Minicraft Titanic was first made.  In this bonus section, we'll show you exactly what was modified since we've identified well over 50 changes that were made to the original tooling.  

“A” Parts Tree:  Well Anchored.

OLD:  The original sprue had gold-chrome props included with stand posts/nameplate.

NEW:  The "A" sprue has been split.  The plated sprue has posts and nameplate only.  A new separate black sprue has props plus new third bow anchor (at far right) and additional new small auxiliary anchors that were not present in the original kit

Some competing Titanic kits have plated brass props and anchors.  Prop blades should actually be Bronze.  Anchors should be painted upper-hull Black.  Three new props including the focsle peak anchor were added as an outrigger runner. 

“B” Parts Tree:  Clearly Different.

OLD:  The domes for the Grand Staircases remain the same.  The other skylights are pretty heavily modified with a completely new window pattern.

NEW:  Three smaller skylights are completely new parts.  The new Part B5 will go on the focsle as we'll see later.  New parts B13 will go on the roof to the Officer's Quarters.

The clear sprue has hatch covers (that will be painted over) and stand parts (see picture above).  The center of the sprue, with parts portraying actual windows/skylights, has been modified quite a bit thanks to photos of the Titanic wreck site studied since 1985.

"C" Parts Tree:  More to "C" Here Than Meets the Eye.

Old crane C11 has a single, thick top-brace.

C26 is a new part.  Instead of a thick single brace, C26 creates two parallel braces across the top of C11.  You'll have to cut this part in half and remove the webbing.

New crane C11 deletes the thick brace.  Both new pieces C26 will be placed there instead.

The "C" Sprue didn't have much done to it; just some enhanced detail on the Bow Crane.  The tip of the bow is a focal point on the ship, so this one will be noticeable, particularly to you fans of Titanic (1997).  In that movie, this crane is clearly visible in the background in the "King of the World" scene and also the "I'm Flying!" scene.  The crane in the movie clearly has a double-strut as depicted by this enhancement.

Boat Deck:  More Steps Towards Accuracy

On the old model, the forward ladder openings had quarter-round canopies that almost resembled ventilator shrouds.  The modification has a rectangular, solid ladder opening railing in place of the quarter-round shroud.  In both pictures, the originally tooled part is on the left (darker plastic) and the new part with the rectangular stairwell is on the right.

The Boat Deck and Promenade Deck were probably considered the "E" Parts Tree at one time.  They're not on a sprue in my early 1990's kit or in my current kits, but perhaps they were at one time which is my guess why there's no "E" Parts Tree listed in the current kit.  Chances are the vent-like shroud was present on one of Titanic's sister ships and that's why the detail was included in the original 1970's tooling.  Photos of the wreck showed otherwise and Minicraft made the change.

Promenade Deck Walls:  The Little Details That Don't Show

The promenade deck bulkheads are now labelled “LEFT” and “RIGHT” on the back.  Perhaps an additional nod to accuracy would have been to designate them “Port” and “Starboard.”  OK, I admit I’m being super-duper nit-picky here.  The instructions refer to them as walls; in Navy-lingo, they're bulkheads.  Semantics aside, The kit tweak is a nice assembly aid even though it's not an accuracy enhancement.  In the picture, the older tooling is at the top.

“F/G” Parts Tree:  More Morse

Original Morse Lamps were smaller on the old kit.

Instructions say to paint these lamps Metallic Gray.

Part G22, Wing cab roof (2 pcs).  The Morse lamps on the initial version of the model were probably based on photos from the Olympic.  Lamps on the Titanic were apparently larger.  I'm guessing a different type of lamp was used on Titanic.  These lamps sat on top of the Wing Cabs and were the method by which nearby ships could see visual morse code transmissions.  Unlike military-style vaned spotlight signal lights, Titanic's Morse lamps were intended to be omnidirectional and would not be visible at any appreciable distance.

"I" Parts Tree:  It Is the Index for Innovation

Few of us will forget that ghostly image of Titanic's bow railing as the first thing we saw when pictures of the newly discovered wreck were released after the ship's discovery on 01 September 1985.  Titanic's bow was intact and easily photographed and much lost information about the ship was learned from this point on.

Quite a bit was done on the "I" parts sprue with the most significant change on the kit the creation of a new Focsle piece.

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The Focsle is a completely new piece with quite a few modifications.  The changes to this part alone make it worth your trouble to get an updated Titanic kit if you already have an older one in your stash.  In this view, the new Focsle is at left.  Note that the older parts were molded in white plastic; the current version of the kit has the entire spure molded in a yellowy-light tan plastic.

If you’ve read this far, you know probably know your ships and I don’t need to explain what a foc'sle (forecastle) is.  One of the early revelations from Titanic wreck inspection was the discovery of the third anchor well at the forepeak of the focsle.  The new part has a third anchor well added with ribbed detail and of course the new anchor added to the "A" Parts Tree described earlier.

OLD:  Prior to the Titanic wreck discovery, the bow anchor was forgotten.

NEW:  This anchor well was based on photography from the Titanic wreck site.

NEW:  This is the all-new  "outrigger" runner as part of the modified "A" Parts Runner described earlier.  The new third anchor was added (left in the photo).  Two new auxiliary anchors were added as well.

Position of the breakwaters was changed on the Focsle.  The forward cargo hatch was also modified quite a bit with appropriate gussets to sides and front being added.  The cargo hatch cover is a completely new part as well with a different shape and porthole detail added.  This modification is an interesting one as period photos exist depicting the arched cover, but the original kit part was flat.  Regardless, it’s nice that Minicraft decided to enhance this part along with the rest of the modifications.  A new auxiliary anchor is added at starboard-rear of the deck and at port, there is a new skylight structure on the clear sprue that goes there. 

OLD:  Breakwater position, no hatch gusset details and no skylight.

The breakwater ("V"-like structure that diverts water coming over the bow from large waves and bow-spray to be drained through scuppers) location was changed on the new Focsle piece.  Note also at the upper-right a location for a new skylight was added.  One of the new smaller auxiliary anchors also goes on the Focsle.

NEW:  How sharp is your eye?  Something is missing here.  But thankfully, it's a very easy fix.

The forward cargo hatch was also modified quite a bit with appropriate gussets to sides and front being added.  Bollard positions near the breakwaters have been adjusted.  One little caveat, on my kit, a rigging thread hole at the aft starboard corner of the new focsle was missing.  It will be a simple matter to add it with a small drill bit.

 Part I-11 (at right) is a new Forward Hatch Cover; this goes on the Focsle.  Note the old, flat piece at left.  While you've got your drill out, you can open up those portholes in the new piece!

Part I-7 is the Boiler Casing/Officer’s Mess Roof.

The new I-7 has added detail visible at right.

OLD:  Second-Class Library Roof area.

The last "I" Parts Tree change we'll mention is minor; some detailing near the Second Class Library Roof was changed.  The original hatch had diagonal lines; the new hatch cover is more elaborately appointed.

NEW:  Second-Class Library Roof area.

"J" Parts Tree:  Just a Few to Go -- That's A Lot of Changes, Isn't It!

OLD J39:  The lower bridge face had portholes, but no door outlines.

 J39 NEW:  New door openings were added to this piece.

The "J" Sprue has six modified parts that we found; nothing major, but more enhancements which add up to a fairly significant number when taken in total.

OLD:  J27, Skylight Bulkheads, had no portholes.

NEW:  Both J27 parts have three new portholes each.

J14 is the forward Well Deck Bulkhead.  Above, the older part appears to have open portholes.  Below, the new part appears to show new deadlights that cover up the portholes.

OLD J10:  The Poop Deck should have wood deck-texture.  

NEW J10:  planking detail is added to the Poop Deck.

OLD J1: No Bell!

NEW J1:  New bell detail was added!

A HULL LOT OF CHANGES GOING ON - (Sorry; we're really scraping the bottom of the barrel, we know.  That was a hull of a bad joke)

The hull to Minicraft's Titanic got some changes.  A previously unknown portside focsle porthole was discovered and it was added to the kit.  In addition, reinforcing plates that had an "X" pattern probably present on a sister ship but not on Titanic were changed to reflect those extant on the Titanic from recent research.  There were 20 of these that were changed on the kit.

OLD:  Original Plate detail had an "X" pattern.

NEW: Plate detail filled in - not an "X".

OLD:  Three portholes in this picture.

NEW:  The porthole second from left is new.

In all, we counted 67 tooling changes to the kit!  Not a few iconic, beloved model  kits have less than 67 parts total, so the modifications that Minicraft did here are no small potatoes.  The investment to do this probably represented a chunk of change that justified a higher price on the updated Minicraft Titanic kit initially, but that has since been rolled back considerably to the current value-pricing.  

FAQ:  I HAVE AN OLDER PRE-MODIFIED MINICRAFT TITANIC KIT BUT NOW I'M INTERESTED IN GETTING A NEW ONE.  WHAT SHOULD I DO WITH MY OLD KIT?

A perfect suggestion for your old Titanic kit is to do an RC conversion on it!  As your 1/350 RC Titanic plies the waters of your favorite pool or quiet pond, you and your friends won't notice the differences between the old and new versions of the Minicraft kit like you can with the model on your shelf.  An RC conversion is an advanced modeling project, but one of these days, we plan on some how-to features with some ways to do it inexpensively for those who don't already have a lot of spare RC gear.

LINKS

Following are three must-see websites about modeling the Titanic that will be helpful and entertaining.

Rivet-counter.com is a great resource for anyone interested in building a Titanic model "beyond the box."  David Cotgreave's Titanic Scale Model Tutorial is in-depth treatise examining Minicraft's Titanic kit and suggesting modifications to take Minicraft's 1/350 Titanic to a level of detail way beyond what comes in the box.

Encyclopedia-Titanica.org is not specifically a model building website, but it will be of interest to anyone who wants to learn more about the RMS Titanic.  Undoubtedly, the modeler will find many tidbits that will help them build a more enjoyable model.

Art Braunschweiger's 1/350 Titanic model built from the Minicraft kit really has to be seen to be believed.  Visit Titanicmodel.net to see this amazing model.  We're also impressed with Art's photography.  He took measures to duplicate the lighting you'd expect to see at sea level in sunlight.  The entire presentation is first-rate!

THE FUTURE

Minicraft Models has announced a 1/350 RMS Olympic.  Research work for this model is ongoing.  No release date has been announced.  The model kit industry is a turbulent business and plans can always change, but we wish Minicraft the best of luck with this project!

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